I am a huge fan of public transportation. Living in the city of Chicago (near Wrigley), I didn’t own a car for four years. I could get wherever I needed to go by El, subway, Metra, taxi, or plane. I told friends and family that I knew the city’s transportation like the back of my hand.
When it comes to rail, the Europeans got it right. Their rail systems are incredibly efficient. They vary from country to country, and I learned quite a few lessons after my 14-country adventure traveling with a 90-day Global Eurail Pass. Below, I share my train travel experiences by country – the good, the bad, and he ugly.
Germany
If trains run late in Germany, the Germans are not very happy. I found them to be fairly punctual, very clean, plentiful, and free. There are more train types than I am able to explain, but I was never charged a reservation fee on any that I took. On a couple of the long-distance, higher speed trains I took, I was even offered snacks and beverages. I did happen to have one of my worst experiences on a journey from Berlin to Dusseldorf. The train left Berlin and traveled for about 30 minutes before it came to a stop on the tracks. After a short time, it began to move, but not in the right direction. We didn’t return all the way to Berlin, but we moved backwards for quite awhile. I didn’t understand the German conductor well enough, but no one seemed upset, so I waited to see what would happen. We stopped again then moved forward. The two-hour-delay wasn’t even the bad part about this ride. The AC quit on this unusually hot day, but the blower didn’t. We perspired for hours as heat began to blow in.
Italy
Italian trains seemed plentiful and fairly clean, however, they were often late – sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes more. Sometimes, that worked to my benefit. I rarely paid for reservations, until I was fined 18 euros on a high-speed train from Naples to Rome. The security on the trains seemed relaxed. I rode in first class and experienced several women with babies looking for handouts. Sometimes we were entertained by musicians also aggressively pursusing handouts.
France
The first French train I took began in Lyon and took me to Marseille to connect to Nice. I violated my rule of planning my way out when I arrived and found myself wasting a day. While I researched my train times the night before, when I arrived at 7:00 the next morning, there was a track problem. Then there were no Eurail reservations available until 2:00 pm. and the I had to wait again in Marseille. By the time I arrived in Nice, it was just before dark – something else I tried to avoid. While riding around in the south of France, I found the cleanest train station ever in nearby Monaco. My most expensive reservation was from Brussels to Paris – 41 euros.
Spain
My intro to Spanish trains began on my ride from Narbonne, France, to Barcelona, Spain. Security was excellent – only people who belonged on the platform were allowed. When the train pulled up, I entered something out of the 70s. It was a such a crappy first class coach. Security was again high at the border with inspectors coming through twice, and again, I didn’t mind it. I spent a week in Spain seeing eight different cities by train and I made a few mistakes. I should have requested specific seating. No window or sitting facing two others in a tight space for a couple of hours was unpleasant. I almost always had to put my bags through a scanner in Spain. That was fine, but I almost missed a train because of it. Most trains go through Madrid and most trains are considered high speed. I spent seven to ten euros for each ride as reservation fees in additon to my Eurail pass cost. When you spend $2,000 for a Eurail pass, repeated reservation fees are irritating.
Portugal
I left Madrid on a night train to Lisbon. I only reserved a reclining seat because I couldn’t sleep in my first sleeper car from Munich to Venice. It was not a good value at seven euros because a team of teenage soccer girls boarded shortly after I did and they were rude and loud all night long. Once in Portugal, I rode trams, trolleys, and suburban trains. All were great, but the ticket machines were confusing.
Switzerland
It’s hard to beat Swiss trains. Clean, punctual, free, and scenic. Wow! That’s all I’ve got… Wow.
Hungary
When I arrived in Budapest, the station was under construction. That was not an uncommon occurance as I traveled. Europeans are always renovating something. The language and letters were a bit confusing, but I found the ticket counter and booked a reservation to Prague. This seemed easy enough and I enjoyed all three subway lines getting around the city. The gold line here is the second oldest mainland subway line and the trains looked it. I will never forget the musical chimes as the doors opened and closed. My only transportation problem was when I left. A pushy local reached for my ticket offering to help me find my train and coach. He showed me the way and lifted my bag up to the rack. He then waited around for a tip. I was nearly out of the local currency, but I offered him what I had and he had the nerve to request euros. I did not ask for his help. This train went through Slovenia. My Eurail pass was not valid in Slovenia. Again, I was fined, this time to the tune of 22 euros. I could have taken a different route had I known.
Czech Republic
This station was also under construction, but nice station personnel directed us around it. The ticket counter was helpful and the station nice. The trains were frequent and reservation fees to Berlin were not required.
Luxembourg
I visited Luxembourg City for only 24 hours, but my ride there from the Rhine river towns and back was pleasant and full of connections. At one connection, I saw groups dressed alike waiting for a train on a nearby platform. When the train pulled up, music blared, windows were open, the coaches were crowded with people moving about and hanging out the windows. It was going to Hamburg and it was a complete party.
Austria
Trains in Austria were similar to Germany and Switzerland – good views, free, on time, and super fast. I was introduced to the Railjet here and loved it. My first-class coach was high-tech super new, super sleek, and super comfy.
Netherlands
I spent two and a half days in Amsterdam. Their subway was closed for renovation, so I relied on the trams to get around. They worked just fine and it was actually a bonus to be above ground seeing more of the city. Getting into and out of Amsterdam was fine and also free.
Belgium
I don’t know why I ran into confusion at the Brussels and Brugges train stations. While the trains were fine, on-time, and free, I must have been in a hurry moving in and out of the stations and missed things I needed. Brugges busses depart after trains arrive and I didn’t catch them because I was looking for tourist information. Brussels has two stations, and the large one I used intimidated me.
Ireland
It took me some time to understand Irish rail. You can go anywhere in Ireland in about two hours. The trains are nice, they are on time and they are free – just don’t travel on a bank holiday. I had a very bad coffee during my two hour wait in the Cork City station but a good story from the station attendant who tried to keep the peace and order among the crowds trying to get out of there on a bank holiday.
England
My railpass expired when I arrived in Liverpool. That was fine, it wasn’t valid in England anyway. I instead rode some nice Virgin high-speed trains between Liverpool, Manchester, and London. My cost was reasonable and the trains were on time. I can’t say it was scenic. I wanted to see a bit of England, but we were often partially hidden in these trenches. Once in London, I stuck to the tube and a local train to Windsor.
While I had a few problems, I spent 98 days riding European rails and wouldn’t trade it for the world. My navigating was done for me, I traveled safely, and I was able to multi-task or chill out. Check out your local bookstore for books on rail travel or read about my adventures in Souvenir T-Shirts available as an ebook, black and white paperback, or color paperback at Amazon.com, Kobo, and Barnes and Noble.
Souvenir T-Shirts 